Opportunities beyond Olive Oil

SpecialtyFood.com

By Nicole Potenza Denis

My introduction to what I then considered alternative oil was 11 years ago on a dinner table piled high with perfectly charred cuts of beef and delicately roasted artichokes. The oil was not in a fancy bottle, nor did it don a hefty price tag. Instead, it lay in an ordinary wooden bowl with a tablespoon. Chunks of freshly cut garlic, generous amounts of Italian sea salt, and a sprinkling of some red pepper flakes swam its circumference. The oil hurriedly made its way around the table between 15 hungry Sicilians who would not eat their steak until it was anointed with what seemed to be a holy concoction. When it came my turn to partake in this ritual, all eyes were gazing at my plate. After the deed was done, I realized that, although simple and rustic, the oil added a new dimension to the meat.

Little did I know what the future would hold. These days, manufacturers in the U.S. and abroad are bottling resources other than the olive and adding other flavorful ingredients. While extra virgins are being pressed with Meyer lemons, smoked with pine cones, or caught co-existing with vanilla beans, avocado oil is shacking up with Sicilian Blood Oranges and grapeseed is brainstorming with basil. These alternative oils, along with nut, rice bran, and even tea varieties are being touted for their health properties as they elbow their way onto specialty store shelves alongside the new staple—olive oil.

“Good for You” Fats
When reading food labels, fat is one of the three ingredients people care about most, according to a new report by Mintel International Group. Olive oil, especially extra virgin, may be the industry standard for a good fat choice, but there are other oils with even healthier benefits gaining exposure and confidence with consumers.

One popular choice: grapeseed oil. “Grapeseed oil is where olive oil was 25 years ago,” says Valentin Humer, president and CEO of Napa, Calif.-based Food & Vine, Inc., maker of Salute Santé grapeseed oil. High in antioxidants and possessing cholesterol-lowering properties, grapeseed oil is benefiting from the public’s realization that transfats are bad.

Grapeseed oil also has a 485 degree F. smoke point, almost twice that of olive oil. This ensures that no negative flavors will be introduced to foods when either searing or sautéing. A neutral, non-greasy mouth-feel also makes it versatile in the kitchen. “Grapeseed oil is one of our best movers,” says Juan Larios, general manager, Garden of Eden, New York City. Larios sells two bottles of grapeseed oil for every five bottles of olive oil, regardless of price. “Our customers know it’s healthy,” he adds.

Buttery Avocado Oil
A less obvious choice gaining awareness is avocado oil. The oil has a neutral, yet buttery flavor and is best known for its smoke point of 500 degrees F, giving it the ability to withstand high-heat cooking. Roger Moore, president of Pacifica Culinaria, Costa Mesa, Calif., manufacturer of cold-pressed avocado oils, says that there is a growing acceptance of alternative oils in the marketplace.

However, some retailers are still slow to understand the benefits and are leery of the “fat.” “All oil is 100% fat,” says Moore. “But a lot of people are still confused about the difference between good fats and bad fats.” Avocado oil is high in monounsaturated fat which raises the level of HDL, the “good” cholesterol and lowers LDL, the “bad” cholesterol. New FDA labeling laws that require manufacturers to declare the transfat profile of a product will help people become more aware of the benefits of healthy alternative oils as such as avocado and nut oils, Moore believes.

Going Nuts
“Nut oils are on the rise in my store,” says David Kaufman, owner of The Truffle, Denver. Kaufman carries a range of alternative oils, including cold-pressed nut oils, grapeseed oils, and avocado oils. J. Leblanc’s pure, cold-pressed walnut oil is his best-seller. “People aren’t buying alternative oils to replace olive oil—these oils are for an entirely different purpose,” Kaufman notes. Not for high-heat cooking, walnut oil is rich in Omega-3 and is a popular component for salad dressings and to add a nutty flavor to a finished dish.

J. Leblanc pure nut oils are roasted and cold-pressed. which makes them especially appealing to the more knowledgeable home gourmet, adds Kaufman. Bellaire, Tex.-based The French Farm imports J. Leblanc oils and estimates that its sales in walnut oil have doubled over the past two years, to 20,000 bottles. “People are looking for a different taste than just olive oil; for this reason nut oils are becoming very popular,” remarks Gisele Oriot, owner. Although walnut is the company’s best-seller, hazelnut is not far behind. Higher in monounsaturated fat than walnut oil, hazelnut oil is lighter and fruiter, used more often in the summer months drizzled on grilled fish or salads. In contrast, walnut is “winter oil,” pairing best with blue cheese.

On the pricier side, pistachio oil offers an intense nut flavor and a distinct emerald green color. Drizzled over salads or even ice cream, it offers a new dimension to many dishes. Oriot attributes the popularity of nut oils to the increased exposure in cooking magazines and chefs incorporating them on their menus. For example, Chef Maurice Hurley of New York City’s Cassis on Stone Street uses walnut oil to make walnut ice cream. “I use it during the process to enhance the flavor of the ice cream and also drizzle it over the finished product,” he says.

Nut Oil from Australia and Austria
Unlike other nut oils, Macadamia nut oil can withstand high temperatures. Its 410 degree F smoke point lends itself to sautéing and frying. It, too, is fat-friendly. High in monounsaturated fats, it has an equal balance of Omega 3 and Omega 6, the essential fatty acids that help inflammatory conditions such as heart disease.

Yet making its way out of the health food store and into gourmet markets has been a slow but steady process. “People are learning that they have to pay attention to the fat content in their diets,” say Martie Whittekin, chief operating officer of MacNut Oil, Plano, Tex., an importer of Australian Macadamia nut oil.

Although only selling in the U.S. for about a year, the oil gained attention at the Summer Fancy Food Show where people tasted it. When used cold, it is not greasy; in warm cooking applications, it has a rich buttery flavor.

Pumpkinseed oil comes from a green and yellowish striped squash hailing primarily from the Austrian region of Styria. Nicknamed in Austria “Styrian Diesel,” it takes approximately 33 pumpkins to make one liter of oil. The shell-less seeds are harvested by hand, roasted and pressed to create khaki-green oil with an intense color and aroma. High in zinc, vitamins E, A, B, C, D and the essential fatty acids Omega 3 and 6, the oil is making its way into specialty stores. Nairy Balian, owner of Arnabal International, Tustin, Calif., importer of Austrian pumpkinseed oil, welcomes the exposure by celebrity chefs. “The oil is featured on Sara Moulton’s website and in the past five months it has really picked up,” she says.

Full-flavored and not greasy on the palate, pumpkinseed oil is best used to finish dishes such as soups or grilled fish or to mix with cider vinegar to create a nutty vinaigrette. Once open, customers should use the oil within two to three months; it has a short shelf-life and will go rancid quickly.

High Heat Hitters
Other emerging oils withstand heat and are well-suited for cooking techniques such as frying. Not well-known in America, rice bran oil has a smoke point of 490 degrees F. and is commonly used in Japanese cooking for tempura. Rich in vitamin E and high in gamma oryzanol, an antioxidant that Japanese researchers found to help heartburn, lower cholesterol and protect the body from free-radicals, rice bran oil is ideal for wok cooking.

South San Francisco-based Golden West Specialty Foods is currently selling Tophé rice bran oil made in the U.S. from rice grown by American farmers. The oil, marketed as grilling oil by Golden West, has a neutral flavor and is currently less expensive to use than peanut oil in a deep fryer. “Rice, unlike peanuts, is a stable commodity,” says Lawrence Ames III, president.

Tea oil, another high-heat hitter used in China for everyday cooking, is also making its presence known in the U.S. Imperial Tea oil, imported by The Republic of Tea, Novato, Calif., is cold-pressed, extra virgin oil from the Camellia or tea plant. With a smoke point of 485 degrees F., it lends itself to myriad cooking applications, from frying to finishing pasta dishes.

An Uphill Battle
Making alternative oils stand out in the crowd is an uphill battle for manufacturers and retailers. Pacifica’s Moore is counting on chefs to drive avocado oil sales; their support, he hopes, will eventually filter down to the consumer. “When the consumer identifies with it they will seek it out in the gourmet shop,” he says. He has developed a 50-milliliter sample bottle to send to chefs and retailers so that they can try the oil.

Olivado, a New Zealand-based avocado oil company, is hoping Hollywood stars will help boost its presence in the U.S. Famous faces that recently attended a pre-Oscars dinner at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills dined on a special dish prepared with the company’s Chili and Bell Pepper infused avocado oil, then left with a gift bottle. The company is also packaging its extra virgin, cold-pressed oil in aerosol spray cans—hoping to give people a more convenient way to use it.

The Republic of Tea’s white and silver minimalist package for its tea oil is designed to stand out among the dark glass bottles of olive oil so it does not get lost in the crowd.

Some retailers are also doing their part to make alternatives visible. Shoppers at The Market Place in Peters, Pa., are greeted by an oil tasting bar upon entering the gourmet market. “People will spend more and be open to having more than one oil in their cabinet—especially when they can taste the differences,” says Owner Brent Bowen. Bowen samples 20-25 oils at a time and includes alternatives such as nut and grapeseed oils. Along with shelf talkers, there is also a knowledgeable employee on hand to talk about the oils.

At Manhattan’s Garden of Eden, alternatives are mixed in with the regular 12-foot set of oils and vinegars and are also given special attention on an end cap in the middle of the store. Tea, Macadamia and grapeseed oils are displayed with higher priced extra virgin olive oils and balsamics.

Manufacturers believe that there will always be a learning curve when it comes to educating consumers and retailers on the uses and benefits of alternative oils. Says Pacifica’s Moore, “We need to keep educating—there are many options out there; soon we are going to see a lot more wonderful oil products on the shelves.”

Nicole Potenza Denis is associate editor of Specialty Food Magazine.

( *Further in the article: )

Opportunities Beyond Olive Oil
The Infusion Explosion

Oil pressed with exotic citrus is versatile and sure to turn heads. For instance, California-based O Olive Oil began crushing organic citrus with California extra virgin olive oil nine years ago and its Meyer Lemon has been a consistent best-seller. Some leading Italian oils are also infused with flavors, ranging from citrus to basil.

Alternative oils are jumping on the bandwagon. Pacifica Culinaria infuses citrus with Mexican cold-pressed avocado oil to create a Key Lime oil and a Sicilian cold-pressed Blood Orange oil, its best-seller. “People have no idea that they can bake with these oils,” says President Roger Moore. He suggests using the Blood Orange avocado oil in place of butter for carrot cake. Food & Vine’s Valentin Humer calls his infused grapeseed oils made with fresh herbs that are crushed then married together with the oil, “liquid spices.”

Return